A Mary Katrantzou show practically has an unwritten rule that you’ll be met with crazy prints, structured silhouettes and shades from all around the colour wheel – and her SS16 collection at LFW didn’t stray too far from this. This season, however, she takes the route of a slightly darker colour palette with less fixed silhouettes, moving away from what she is often renowned for; a direction we have seen her gradually taking over the course of her most recent collections. Set against a mesmerizing backdrop of iridescent blue, the mirrored wall opposite the audience gathered for Katrantzou’s latest offering not only gives an underwater feel to the showcase, but also cleverly provides another angle from which to see the garments.

 

An almost eerie, other-wordly soundtrack kicks in and Mary begins her ‘voyage into uncharted territories’ with a-line silhouettes in floaty chiffon; the shimmering metallic colour palette is lifted with splashes of bold pink and burnt orange in the form of ribbed leggings (a surprisingly casual garment for this designer). Taking a closer look at the space-age fabrics reveals how they are adorned with silver sequins, exquisitely shimmering in the light. Hair and makeup is kept fairly simple to allow the collection to take centre-stage, with just a slick of coloured mascara here and there; while hair is either kept natural or loosely waved, then tied to the neck with a black ribbon.

 

While the aquatic theme rises to the surface quite clearly (even the floor is blue to mimic the ocean), the collection also delves into the world of folklore dress which, although quite subtle, is evident in the draping of the loose, effortless dresses and the placing of peplums at various heights. The dresses have a haphazard feel, with ditsy florals and paisley both present on one dress, coming together for a patchwork look. This marks a return to her patterned roots – a move that will no doubt be popular among those that have followed her collections since her debut at LFW in 2008 (us included).

 

More substantial-looking garments offer a juxtaposition to the romantic, bohemian-style dresses we have seen so far; a quilted holographic tunic is paired with pointed black boots, toughened up with laces and silver buckles. With such a plethora of patterns on show, there is always the possibility of it becoming too busy... but Mary once again takes her place as queen of prints in our book, drawing on her vast experience with highly decorative clothing, as she pulls the ethereal looks together in a way only she is capable of.

 

The show as a whole feels enchanting and mystical, yet the garments showcased are all wearable and definitely won’t disappoint those who have followed this relatively young brand from the beginning. There is also a feeling, however, that this collection will appeal to a new audience who prefer the more minimal, one-colour look. Clearly she is moving into new areas of design, but the first half of the show is where her work truly shines – both literally and figuratively – leaving the audience wanting more as we wonder just where she will take us next season following this aquatic adventure.